Normal Guy Tries to Wear a Thom Browne Suit

David Katz at Esquire tries on a signature Thom Browne skinny, high-water suit. Are the results laughable?

Thom Browne is a tiny guy -- maybe five six and very thin -- and he is sometimes criticized for making clothes that look good only on him. As Browne instructed his assistant on which samples to pull, I wondered aloud if his suits were really going to work on a guy my size: six feet, 185 pounds. In the course of his answer, he walked me through the history of his designs.
...
Browne assured me his suits could be tailored to any size (within reason), as long as the proportions were maintained. And I was somewhat encouraged by the fact that there was another guy of average size in the store trying on a seersucker number, though I was less encouraged by the fact that he kind of looked like an ass. I sucked in my gut and tried on jackets, and I somehow managed to squeeze into the second one. Still, I felt like Chris Farley in David Spade's blazer, and it seemed as if the thing was one quick exhale from becoming a $4,000 rag. I emerged from behind the dressing panel expecting a chuckle and a new, roomier blazer. Instead I got, "Oh, that one's perfect. Now let's do the pants."
...
Browne carefully outlined the proper way to wear his suit: tie tucked in and clipped, button-down collar left unbuttoned, no belt, and no socks. The rules of nonconformity, it seemed, were more fascistic than I had imagined. "Of course, the most important thing is that you're comfortable," he said, unbuttoning my jacket and allowing me to exhale for the first time in fifteen minutes.

The answer is yes, although Katz does manage to have a bit of an adventure showing off his "expensive affectation" (and mostly suffering for it.)




I have to admit that I do like a good deal of what Browne is all about, and by that I mean his effort to keep the suit relevant. The crisp, close-fitting 1950s-1960s suit styles I've also long felt were a high point of men's suiting in the modern age, and in general, I admire tastefully anachronistic looks that feel fresh.

Still, there is going too far, and there is really going too far. I've always viewed Browne's signature style as costume-like, and his laundry list of details necessary to properly wear his (evidently uncomfortably tight) suit does little to challenge the idea that his look is anything less than a complete affectation.

Worse, it's an affectation of the most buffoonish kind: one that makes the wearer actually look less attractive.

Men's fashion should still retain at least some vague semblance of practicality, and of not being so vapidly affected -- lest one look like a clown. Additionally, a look so entirely contrived rarely stands the test of time, and is hardly usable for the vast majority out there.

Combine the old with the new, yes, yes, but don't do so if it looks cartoonish. That's the real thing we should be learning from Thom Browne.

That said, his Brooks Brothers Black Fleece lineup is, for the most part, killer. But, you know, that's another thing entirely.

[Link to Esquire article]

Some Beautiful Ties from Paul Stuart

A few new, great-looking ties from Paul Stuart:







Enjoy!

I bought my first suits at Paul Stuart, on the advice of my father, who hooked me up with his "guy" there. I still have the small logo pin they give you.

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Winter car coat GOOD, plaid overload BAD

You likely already know I'm not generally a fan of Marc Jacobs, but his grey winter car coat is a perfect fit for winter. It's a slight update on a classic, and a design that works spectacularly well in countless scenarios, especially in a place like New York -- where we may not have cars, but we're in need of lightweight outerwear that flexible enough to be worn to work, out after work, and when you're in casual mode.



I dig it. Apparently, only $950 at Bloomingdale's.

Of course, I'm obligated to temper my praise of the above car coat with some measure of hideousness. No doubt you're already well informed about the popularity of plaid. Perhaps you've already succumbed (alas!)

This trend is to be avoided. Plaid (or tartan, as it's known elsewhere, and more properly) is, like most complex patterns, best used only in strict moderation. As a result, it works well only in very, very limited situations: in formal military or clan dress, lumberjackery and general outdoorsmanship, and the occasional pyjama. We should all remember the lessons of grunge rock-era styling -- there's a reason that grunge rockers' style of dress, based around the plaid flannel shirt, has long been lampooned. The movement drove the tartan pattern into inanity.

More pragmatically, can you really expect to be wearing this a few seasons from now?





I should hope not, lest you be forever known as "the Logger." I should add that while the jacket (which retails for about $720 at Bergdorf) may actually look pretty bitchin' right now -- yes, I can admit it -- unless you plan to throw it on to go outside and chop firewood every winter for years to come, it's a downright poor investment.

And, god help us, Tommy Fazio at Bergdorf actually suggest it be used in a formal setting: "It
looks great as outerwear, and can even be worn with a bow tie as an
alternative to a sport coat." No, no, no, a thousand times, no. Unless you've got more money than you know what to do with, avoid this jacket and plaid in general. Avoid them like the plague.



(Also via men.style.com)

One Hell of a Boot

Wow -- now THIS is a great-looking boot. Rustic-looking, but not costumish. Capable of being worn in a variety of situations -- well, with jeans (a no-brainer) or ideally, some suits. Monkstraps are also very "in" at the moment, and although I'm wary of recommending anything trendy, this one has appeal that will outlast the season.

Bettanin & Venturi "Norwegian"



Available at Barneys.

(Via Men.Style.com)

Basics of Buying a Suit

Stumbled on this funny introduction on suits, and how to select one.

And that is exactly what it will do, if you treat it right. Unfortunately the majority of suits you see look awful. This isn’t necessary. Even if you work ten hours with your jacket on, being mindful of your clothing will keep you ready for cocktails after work. Too many men either don’t care or don’t know how to wear a suit, and, suitably, look like shit. This is worth avoiding.

I'd also like to call out one piece of information in particular: "Trends have six-to-eighteen-month shelf lives. If you plan to retire your suit in this window, feel free to splurge. Otherwise, shop considerately." Words to live by.

The Morning News Men’s Fashion: Suits

Great Almost-All-Year-Round Look

Check this out. The hoodie-suit jacket thing is old, but this way, looks new.

Details here are the unlined jacket and very lightweight hoodie.



Sport coat and shirt by Calvin Klein Collection. Hoodie by Acne Jeans. Tie by Band of Outsiders.

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Best. Shoes. Ever.

Thought I might seize the opportunity to point out one of my favorite shoemakers, Edward Green.













They're not kidding when they say that their shoes are for the "discerning few." I won't point out the prices here. Instead, I urge you to visit and use their site as a guide for better understanding what makes a great shoe.



[link]

Classy, Casual Watch from Burberry

Great find. Perfect for pairing with your spring wardrobe, and not pricey, either.







Swiss-made, classic-yet-sporty look, and not too overly branded -- which I always hate. A great addition to almost any man's collection.


$525.00



Link

Better Shoe at Nordstrom

My quest for the perfect brown leather wingtip oxford

continues, with better results at Nordstrom.









Mezlan 'Trenton' Oxford, $235.00





I like a number of things about this shoe: The leather approaches that golden, organic and slightly imperfect look I'm after -- I despise brown leather in that bland, generic-looking Crayola brown. It's also lean-looking, but not thin and pointy enough to make your feet look like little boats, which is a constant fear of mine. (Perhaps guys with smaller feet don't have this worry.)



I do wish there was a bit more detailing on the toe. The search continues.



Link